Trouser-making Blog

 

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How to shape a trouser leg

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Here’s how the useful folks at the Cutter and Tailor forums followed up on the topic I posted about here last: How tailors used to make (and shape) trousers. Highly recommended reading for those of you who want the good old stuff. Especially note the impressive results Jeffery Diduch gets with pant-leg shaping right here,…

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The Old Way

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There’s a thread building up at one of my go-to-daily spots on the Net, www.cutterandtailor.com, that might interest pant makers that are interested in traditional and vintage tailoring techniques. It started a couple of days ago with some beautiful, clear scans of the trouser chapter from an early 20th-Century book on how to tailor, with…

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How to Make a Pattern from Your Existing Pants

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Here’s how to easily copy any existing pant or trouser so you’ll have a pattern for making new pants that fit the same, and a starting point for designing your own already fitted pants, or for fine-tuning the fit of pants that almost fit. It’s a followup to my earlier video on copying a shirt…

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Why Should I Buy Your New Pants Book?

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Received this email question this morning: Hi David, I have been reading the reviews about your new pants book and every one of them has been very positive. I already own your first pants book from 2004 and found it to be a wonderful resource. So what is new and different about this new book?…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 7

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In the photo below, notice the angle formed at the top of the bands when the finished pocket is expanded. Inevitable as this is, it’s hardly noticeable when you’re wearing such a pocket, especially if you’ve angled the underneath band down from the pocket mouth forward, as discussed in yesterday’s post. Neither is the distortion…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 6

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Aligning finished edges that overlap is simplified if you choose to err in favor of the overlap completely covering the underlap, rather than trying get the edges perfectly flush. I follow this rule at center front, making sure the underlap side of the front closure dips slightly down behind the overlap, and do the same…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 5

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I can’t think of a buttonhole on a pair of trousers that you wouldn’t prefer to be a keyhole buttonhole, as opposed to a standard shirt-type buttonhole. A keyhole buttonhole won’t get distorted from the width of the wrapped thread shank you should be making behind any button on your trousers; the “key”-hole at the…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 4

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(Sorry ’bout yesterday: Our internet was down.) Hiding in plain sight inside this article on expanding pockets and overlapping waistbands, is another powerful idea that goes way beyond pockets or waists: Maybe machine-stitching and turning isn’t always the best way to form things. I quite like the technique shown here for creating the waistband tab,…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 3

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So, with the pocket folded and creased, as described yesterday, to extend a little beyond the side seam of the front, I position the facing inside it by aligning the facing to the front at the side and top edges. I pin the facing in place, then stitch it to the pocketing in front, leaving…

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