Archive for July 2009

A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 7

In the photo below, notice the angle formed at the top of the bands when the finished pocket is expanded. Inevitable as this is, it’s hardly noticeable when you’re wearing such a pocket, especially if you’ve angled the underneath band down from the pocket mouth forward, as discussed in yesterday’s post. Neither is the distortion…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 6

Aligning finished edges that overlap is simplified if you choose to err in favor of the overlap completely covering the underlap, rather than trying get the edges perfectly flush. I follow this rule at center front, making sure the underlap side of the front closure dips slightly down behind the overlap, and do the same…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 5

I can’t think of a buttonhole on a pair of trousers that you wouldn’t prefer to be a keyhole buttonhole, as opposed to a standard shirt-type buttonhole. A keyhole buttonhole won’t get distorted from the width of the wrapped thread shank you should be making behind any button on your trousers; the “key”-hole at the…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 4

(Sorry ’bout yesterday: Our internet was down.) Hiding in plain sight inside this article on expanding pockets and overlapping waistbands, is another powerful idea that goes way beyond pockets or waists: Maybe machine-stitching and turning isn’t always the best way to form things. I quite like the technique shown here for creating the waistband tab,…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 3

So, with the pocket folded and creased, as described yesterday, to extend a little beyond the side seam of the front, I position the facing inside it by aligning the facing to the front at the side and top edges. I pin the facing in place, then stitch it to the pocketing in front, leaving…

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A Moveable Waist, Extras; Part 2

One big lightbulb that went off for me in my quest to become a more creative and flexible sewer was realizing that I didn’t need to always have a pattern for everything, or to have every edge drafted, measured and cut precisely before starting to sew. As I watched pro sewers and tailors work (thanks…

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A Moveable Waist; Extras, Part 1

FINALLY, I got my author-copies of Threads Issue 144, August/Sept 2009! I’ve been itching to post some additional, supporting material for the article I wrote that appears in this issue, but I really wanted to have the article in hand before I did… Well, it’s here now, so let’s go! The article’s called A Moveable…

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