Shirtmaking Blog

 

A Tale of Forms, Part 1

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I’ve got a new book coming out this month. It’s about fitting shirt-type garments by draping. To make it happen, I needed body-forms to drape on and photograph, since asking live persons to stand still to be draped on for hours on end over the course of the almost two years I spent working on…

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Jan SAL: Combo Collar on Smock Neckline

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Switching over to sewing techniques at long last, here’s my plan: I’ve got three ambitious garments to make, each one no doubt full of surprises, since each will be filled with ideas and details I’ve not tried before. So regardless that I’m also sharing these in a SAL, I’ll be approaching each one in the…

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Jan SAL: Shirt #2 pattern dev

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The body, yoke and sleeves on both shirt #1 and shirt #2 are from the same basic block, the main difference being the collar and CF overlap, since #1 has a collar on a stand and no facings, while #2 has a convertible collar with a facing, plus a deeper overlap/underlap width. Here’s how I…

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Jan SAL: Smock Patterns Part II

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Here’s what I did next with my folk-block muslin.First, here’s another view of the smock project that shows the neckline inserts pretty well. Next, I tried out a few more collar positions and shapes: The lower two images here show the first big blue mackinaw-esque collar trimmed down a bit: I’m liking this pretty well……

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Jan SAL: Smock Patterns, Part I

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Before I move into the pattern development for my third shirt, here’s a shot of the sleeve and yoke that will be the basis for the first and second shirts, already discussed in some detail for the first one, last time. And sorry, not going to get to the placket yet, as promised; I got…

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Jan SAL: Customizing your Custom Pattern with New Details

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Right, let’s say you’ve done a shirt-body drape or any other sort of fitting and you’re happy with your results. The next step is to take the muslin apart and trace it onto paper so you can create a working basic pattern. NOT yet a FASHION pattern, please note! Here’s a diagram from my Workshop…

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Jan SAL: What IS shirt fit, and how to get it?

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Here’s my modest proposal regarding the fit of shirts: It’s all in the shoulders, and everywhere else, it’s all style choices. To be sure, that’s a tad extreme, pared down to be quoteable, as obviously when necks are too tight or loose, sleeves too long or short and buttons nearly popping off at chest or…

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January Shirts Sew-Along: 1. Picking a Pattern

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The most common question I’ve been getting in the run-up to this event has been some variation on “Is this a good pattern to use?” My answer is always some variation on “If you like it, sure!” Not immediately very helpful, I suppose, even though it goes right to the core question, in my opinion.…

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My January Facebook Sew-Along: A Preview

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Last year I was invited to host a sew-along (SAL) for a neat Facebook group, Sew-A-Longs & Sewing Contests, and I was delighted to accept, since I’d been planning to start doing this in the new year on my own. But so much nicer to have a built-in audience! Thank you, Judy O’Day (the group…

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