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A Tale of Forms, Part 1

I’ve got a new book coming out this month. It’s about fitting shirt-type garments by draping. To make it happen, I needed body-forms to drape on and photograph, since asking live persons to stand still to be draped on for hours on end over the course of the almost two years I spent working on…

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Jan SAL: Combo Collar on Smock Neckline

Switching over to sewing techniques at long last, here’s my plan: I’ve got three ambitious garments to make, each one no doubt full of surprises, since each will be filled with ideas and details I’ve not tried before. So regardless that I’m also sharing these in a SAL, I’ll be approaching each one in the…

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Jan SAL: Shirt #2 pattern dev

The body, yoke and sleeves on both shirt #1 and shirt #2 are from the same basic block, the main difference being the collar and CF overlap, since #1 has a collar on a stand and no facings, while #2 has a convertible collar with a facing, plus a deeper overlap/underlap width. Here’s how I…

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Jan SAL: Smock Patterns Part II

Here’s what I did next with my folk-block muslin.First, here’s another view of the smock project that shows the neckline inserts pretty well. Next, I tried out a few more collar positions and shapes: The lower two images here show the first big blue mackinaw-esque collar trimmed down a bit: I’m liking this pretty well……

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Jan SAL: Smock Patterns, Part I

Before I move into the pattern development for my third shirt, here’s a shot of the sleeve and yoke that will be the basis for the first and second shirts, already discussed in some detail for the first one, last time. And sorry, not going to get to the placket yet, as promised; I got…

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Jan SAL: Customizing your Custom Pattern with New Details

Right, let’s say you’ve done a shirt-body drape or any other sort of fitting and you’re happy with your results. The next step is to take the muslin apart and trace it onto paper so you can create a working basic pattern. NOT yet a FASHION pattern, please note! Here’s a diagram from my Workshop…

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