Jan SAL: Smock Patterns Part II

Here’s what I did next with my folk-block muslin.
First, here’s another view of the smock project that shows the neckline inserts pretty well.

Next, I tried out a few more collar positions and shapes:

The lower two images here show the first big blue mackinaw-esque collar trimmed down a bit:

I’m liking this pretty well…

…but still not decided; the plain rectangular collar looked good, too, plus it’s conceptually a better fit. But I love how adaptable the basic design is to all sorts of collars and neckines.

Next, I couldn’t resist trying out a custom-shaped shoulder with this simple set-up; figured it’d be interesting if nothing else, so I proceeded just as with a yoke drape, just leaving out the yoke, and then adding a dress-shirt-collar style necklineby tracing around a cylindrical strip of paper as I do on a dress or sport shirt drape. I just eye-balled a shoulder seam placement to be at the top of each shoulder, using pins, then chalk on both front and back:

Overall, I was going for a much closer fit with this test, just to make the experiment more interesting by scaling it towards my existing sport and dress-shirt patterns rather than towards an over-sized outer garment. Here’s how it looked on me right off the form; definitely an odd mix of fitted and not, exacerbated by the close-fitting neckline, which would be an unlikely feature on any garment I’d build from this drape, but is my usual default starting point:

I haven’t reached any definite conclusions from this little side trip, even though I pursued it a bit further, adding sleeves and even a gently-curved armhole and sleeve cap, but I think you can see how this could become a sort of “how-did-fitted-shirts-evolve-anyway?” investigation…

Next up: Regular-shirt #2’s pattern development.







  1. Mary on June 4, 2018 at 7:20 am

    I want a detail explanations on how to cut and sew men’s shirt with their plackets

    • admin on December 11, 2018 at 6:15 pm

      Hi Mary, sorry I missed your comment until now! What you’re asking for is exactly what my two previous books on shirt making are all about, both including lots of placket info, especially the Workbook.

Leave a Comment